Callings

There it lay, weathered and broken, a once sturdy branch of a burr oak that seemed to be reaching out, inviting me back into a world of consciousness and mental peacefulness that seemed to have slipped away … a dreary feeling that has held me captive since early November.

As the oak reached outwardly, I raised my camera to record the moment. Sometimes you have to do these things. When nature calls one must lend an ear. Open an eye. Especially a mind. To paraphrase the late naturalist John Muir, “The oaks are calling and I must listen.”

This singular oak was in the savanna of the Bonanza Education Center some 11 miles due west of Listening Stones Farm, and as my habit, I was once again meandering through this northern portion of Big Stone Lake State Park seeking, well, mental peace.

At the moment, those limbs seemed to reaching out to me.

Back in November I was frequently searching the many wetlands for calm waters. Yes, photographic metaphors. Just like the oak limb. That quest began the day following the results of the election. For about two weeks my files were stuffed with images of just that … calm waters. A stagnant metaphor, it turns out. When frigid airs froze the wetlands, it seemed for awhile I was lost. As temperatures plummeted way below the comfort level, I entered that mental cocoon.

My recent feeling of detachment from nature is solidly evident in my photography files. And with my writing. Oh, I’ve tried. With imagery and words, though little has come of it. This isn’t like me. It isn’t who I am. And I have not been comfortable on who or what it seems I have become. A man shriveling into a darkness of mind; one who for perhaps the first time in his life has chosen to hide from resilience. This is not what I’m comfortable being, at this age, a bent shell of an old man.

Then I found myself driving through Bonanza on a February afternoon. For an unexplainable reason I had stopped the pickup to just sat quietly. My was window lowered as I breathed in the cold air while seeking a certain calmness. Since I was parked on the road between the woods and a woody ravine, perhaps I was seeking that calmness I feel when forest bathing. When I opened my eyes those limbs of the oak were reaching toward me.

My first moment of calm waters …

Ever since I was introduced to the savanna several years ago, Bonanza has been a harbor for my soul. In decent weather this is where I come to silently meditate and breathe, often easing down to rest my back against the solid trunk of an oak tree, or to even lay beneath an umbrella of staghorn sumac. Countless times I’ve merely sat on a plank bridge crossing over a spring fed rivulet coursing through one of the dozens of ravines found in the park … ravines common to the Big Stone Moraine all along the eastern border of Big Stone Lake.

If my meditation is deep enough even the boats of fishermen on the adjacent lake are duffed into nothingness, often lost in the wind. A scolding wren, though, can break through, as can the peeping chatter of warblers and silken cedar waxwings from high above in the canopy.

Granted, Bonanza isn’t to be confused with a wilderness. While it is fairly uncommon to meet others on the few trails that curve through the undulating savanna, it happens. Cars will slowly cruise down the single gravel road to the Education Center, turn in the wide loop before heading back slowly toward the climb out of the park and valley.

While it seems most convenient to take the lakeside trail, especially with the snow cover, tackling the various loops into the hillside woods beyond the Education Center is almost like entering a different world. A cathedral of tall trees.

I hear the cranes calling, a springtime ritual …

A friend, writer and musician Douglas Woods, regularly sends his Sunday morning thoughts from his cabin along the Mississippi River, his “Church of the Pines.” Douglas is seemingly closer to God than I am, although over time we have individually found our respective woods of worship. Mine is here at Bonanza, where when I drive up that hill out of the valley I most often do so with less tension and a sense of mental freedom.

Twice this week that has happened. Somehow I feel stronger. Mentally refreshed. Again I look toward nature. The coming migrations of snow geese and sandhill cranes, of pasque flowers popping up from roughened and sparse hillsides, of wading shorebirds and cottonwoods filled with bald eagles … those passing through rather than the ones now tethered to their nests.

.

Scoring My Annual Buck!

Travis Sandberg surprised me. I had entered his farm office for an interview for a We Are Water panel scheduled for display in March and quickly realized his office was also a studio for his taxidermy work. Although some of his acreage surrounds Listening Stones, his being a taxidermist was surprising.

Skulls with antlers littered the floor before becoming European mounts, all cleaned by mealworms so perfectly they glistened while awaiting a mounting on wooden plaques, already stained and polished, along with a wall lined with several traditional mounts in various stages of completion. In a later tour of his “man cave” inside his rural farmhouse, his own collection of artistic mounts was displayed along with antelope, pheasant and a fine walleye.

Yes, I knew he was a man who farms in a way that protects both his valuable soil and all of our water resources, which was the reason for my visit. But this? And, Travis is as diligent with his art of taxidermy as he is with his precious top soil.

My 2024 buck was found in the oak savanna of the Bonanza section of Big Stone Lake State Park.

On the other hand I can also say that, yes, I once again got my antlered buck this past autumn. And, no, Travis won’t be mounting my buck for it still lives as far as I know. My buck was shot with my trusty Nikon rather than with a bow or gun, captured within the confines of Big Stone Lake State Park. This is where I go after the Upper Minnesota River Arts Meander and around the hunting season in search of my annual buck. I’ll also readily admit that I do not adhere to the two-week gun hunting season nor the longer, September to December, open season for archery.

This past year I was pleasantly surprised and relieved to even find a photographable buck, and a nice one at that, since there was a special permit granted for area farmers along the Lake Road to kill up to 10 whitetail deer they found munching on their commodity crops of corn and soybeans. Apparently it was a successful program for the deer population along the highway seems significantly reduced.

This beautiful buck was shot in 2022.

While that is rather sad, perhaps there is a silver lining for in past years in the depth of winter many area deer appeared to be stressed food wise. Shrunken flanks, and their munching on shrubs right next to the traffic without regard for the danger and in spite of their shy nature. Over population of the deer herd can also lead to such diseases as chronic wasting disease (CWD) and “blue tongue,” officially known as epizootic hemorrhagic disease. This viral disease can spread quickly through a herd. Symptoms include mouth ulcers and a bluish tongue. 

Fortunately my antlered bucks have all appeared to be healthy, surrounded by a robust herd of does. They seemed to move freely on the park land and along the hills and ravines that drain into Big Stone Lake within the Bonanza portion of the park. Admittedly, there have been some beautiful racks on some of my bucks that were certainly worthy of Sandberg’s trophy’s art.

In 2021 this buck tried to hide from me.

Way back in my youth I remember when a photograph appeared in our local Macon Chronicle Herald of the Missouri Conservation Department releasing a buck and three does from a horse trailer into a nearby woodland. The foursome had been captured in the Ozarks before being released into our wooded hillsides. Later, the same would happen with wild turkeys, and now both are so prominent that Outdoor Life and Sports Afield magazines have since placed Macon County within the top ten hunting counties in the nation for both species. That wasn’t my youth.

However, I was briefly a hunter. Years after the release I had a nice hickory recurve bow and arrows with Fred Bear razor-headed arrows and deemed myself rather proficient at archery, Thanks to my adventures with fly fishing in the area around our family farm, I had a rather decent knowledge of the nearby woody wilds. I knew of a stump surrounded by waist-high brush, and figured this would be a great hideout. People were not hiding in trees back then. I sat with my bow, arrow notched, on the stump to await the big kill. I envisioned the rack. A mount like I’d seen in the Herter’s catalogs and now on Sandberg’s walls. In fact, a mount like my friend Sandberg could create. After a few hours of fidgeting I gave up, hopped into the pickup and drove home with the realization that perhaps I wasn’t made for long hours of patient and tedious sitting. Today I might be more patient and in tune with nature. That was my last hunt, however, probably back in 1958 or so.

A proud pose by my 2020 capture.

In my moving between states through my career years I hadn’t given either hunting or deer much thought. I do recall during my one disasterous month as an editor of Country Magazine viewing an excellent portfolio sent to the magazine by a Kentucky photographer with the most beautiful deer images I had ever seen. Leaping fences. Facing off, antler to antler. Picturesque portrayals in the hilly woodlands like back home. His images were definitely in the wild, and much different from what I had remembered by the legendary Leonard Lerue in the 1960s on whitetail deer.

Then I moved here to Big Stone County to plant a prairie and begin a second career as a prairie photographic artist and learned I was surrounded by incredible numbers of deer. I recalled the Kentuckian’s portfolio, and have since spent hours chasing the whitetails. Does and fawns. Winter, spring, winter and fall. And I began my autumn ritual of searching for a nice buck with a beautiful rack of antlers.

In 2018 there was a moment during the rut …

To date I’ve been rather fortunate. And the deer have been somewhat cooperative. My one wall “trophy” was discovered on a canoe trip along the Minnesota river years ago, the weathered skull of a nice buck that we believed had found a very secluded place to die after being fatally wounded. It hangs here in my office where I could probably hoist a collection of my big buck images. I’ll have to think about that.

Journaling New Horizons

Here we are fresh into a new year, and I am already having old thoughts, those that bring me back to where I was exactly one year ago. All of which began a few years before that with an ad on Facebook featuring a journal of Minnesota’s then 65 state parks. Although many had been visited over the years, there was neither a file of photographs nor a journal consisting of my thoughts of the individual parks.

Once the book arrived a look at the journaling aspects showed a facing page offering basically an itinerary and planning guide followed by a log of the who, what and whens of the visit on the second page. Not being a list maker, this was way too detailed for my tastes, so, I created my own little manner of journaling that now includes an opening page of photographs followed by my actual journaling. Black ink to the rescue! “Fill your paper with the breathings of your heart,” cautioned William Wordsworth. I can’t do that with a list.

Shortly after receiving the book I pasted my first image … one of my late wife, Sharon Yedo White, sitting on a log at the then new Afton State Park with our two sons along with our then exchange student, Fredrik Croona from Sweden. My own image was reflected in a mirror she was holding. It was taken around 1985 or so. Our first home in Minnesota was about a mile south of the southern border of the park, on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the St. Croix and Kinnickinnic Rivers. That was perhaps our most blissful summer together before the stresses of life snagged us … starting a family along with a corporate business life in magazines and an ad agency.

Ah, yes, the makings of a journal. A photograph plus a facing page containing my written thoughts. I promised to fill the rest of the photographic page with images from the park, which was accomplished this past October.

By November of 2024 some 38 state parks had been visited and journaled, although one of my favorites where we spent so much time camping and fishing both as a couple and later with many foreign exchange students, the Upper Sioux Agency State Park, was decommissioned and the land returned to the Dakota Nation. While that was likely an overdue move by the State, it’s a place that holds many fine memories as well as beautiful camping nooks for escaping the ills of society. Yes, it’s journaled.

Just inside the journal is a state map noting the location of each state park, and by now, some three years after receiving the journal most of the state parks in the southern half of the state, from the tip of the Driftless along the Mississippi River and Iowa Border up to the Canadian Border, have been visited, photographed and journaled. Indeed, last September after our aborted effort to do the Lake Superior Circle Tour, we decided to start at Grand Portage State Park at the Canadian border and visit all of the State Parks along the Superior “coast.” A redemption, if you will. Something to sooth our raw souls (yes, thoughts that were journaled!).

Our first day went well, and the second started wonderfully with a short hike into the falls at Cascade River SP that was breathtakingly beautifully. The park was a “water baby’s” dream offering waves of photographic poetry. Next was Temperance River SP where I choose to take a rock stairwell rather than a paved path and lost my balance on a deeper than expected step. Down I went, crushing my camera and lens beneath my body in a hard fall. Both were ruined, which has since led to quite a technological adventure, and one that is quite challenging for a man my age.

After much thought and concern, the decision was made to continue with my art. I wasn’t ready to quit even as I turned 81. Since my crushed Nikon had been discontinued I have since “graduated” into a whole new realm of technology. My old photo processing software wouldn’t handle the new imagery, and then came the reality that the printer I’d used for the past several years was obsolete. Epson had discontinued producing the specified ink cartridges …. meaning a new printer. More technology, and one I’m still dealing with. My two main software programs still operating on my old iMac desktop were long obsolete although still usable with the older equipment. New camera. New software. New printer. More new technology. New tricks for an old mind.

Yet, there’s the state park journal along with my quest to continue my form of “Impressionistic Prairie Art.” No, I wasn’t ready to quit — not my art nor my journal, not when I only 26 state parks short of completing my goal!

This past year we actually visited 17 parks. This came after a count when I sort of felt like I’d short changed myself. This doesn’t include our home park, Big Stone Lake SP with its distant Bonanza Educational Center. Both that and the Meadowbrook section are visited numerous times each month.

So now I’m where I was a year ago in looking over my journaling and the parks previously visited and scheming forthcoming trips. Minnesota is blessed with some of the most beautiful and interesting state parks in the nation, and hopefully if my health and energy continues we’ll make a dent in the 26. Typically we’ll park the camper at one state park and visit any that are close by, Roberta holds Joe Pye on a leash while I search for imagery, sauntering down a narrow wooded trail or seeking an angle of a beautiful river, all while seeking some photographic “poetry.”

Twelve for Twenty Four

Way back when, nearly 60 years ago, I entered the Fourth Estate, otherwise known as professional journalism. About this time of year the editors, perhaps in need of filling space with the shrinking of the newsy tidbits that seemed to ebb with the holiday season, would ask us to select our favorite stories or photographs they would then feature in the paper.

Long retired from the grind of my former profession, about a dozen years ago I began to fully focus on the last one percent of the prairie pothole ecosystem with my camera. Since then my work has been featured in various galleries, art shows, a few magazines and here at my home studio especially during the annual Upper Minnesota River Arts Meander. For the past several years I’ve gone back to that old newspaper gig of selecting what I considered my favorite 12 images of the year.

My selection process began the day after Christmas and my selections were chosen in typical brainstorming fashion … by gleaning through my monthly files of images to place in a desktop file. At that point there were a few favorites, yet that wasn’t the point of this annual review. Later would come the judgement. I wanted a dozen, but another five were so close that I found myself continually adding and subtracting … so here are my 12 plus a few others, for whatever it’s worth. By the way, thanks for your continued engagement and support of my work.

Years ago my Art of Erosion was part of a Smithsonian traveling water exhibit, and I’ve still found myself still searching for imagery of dirt captured in the snow … like this image that I call the “Monks of Dirt.”
The past couple of years we’ve been blessed with Northern Lights, and this was among my favorites … lights framed by a grove of trees at a wetland not far from here.
So far I’ve made four trips to the annual Sandhill Crane migration in central Nebraska, although this time I didn’t rent a blind. This image was captured at dusk in a stalk field on our last night there.
Nearby is the Big Stone NWR, consisting of backwater sloughs, shoulders of granite and gneiss outcrops and a beautiful prairie … where this tree was captured within the bloom of June.
Another nearby “must” is the Bonanza Education Center of Big Stone Lake State Park, where I caught this “Sumac Feast.”
When I visited the Nerstrand-Big Woods State Park, a few years ago, time restraints convinced me to skip a hike down to the falls. I made it back in October, and this was made just below the falls where oak leaves caught droplets from the falls.
A late afternoon image of an oak in the Bonanza prairie. The lines. The colors. The blessings of light on the prairie grasses. The craginess!
Swans are almost always a part of Maplewood State Park, and I loved the feel of this one caught through the twinning of underbrush. A feel of stained glass …
Thanks to my good friend, Chris Ingebretsen, manager of Bluemounds State Park, I’ve been able to capture various images of the extremely rare White Fringed Prairie Orchid. Yes, it is on the Endangered Species List.
An array of autumn color in the hills of Nerstrand Big Woods SP.
Another Bonanza image, of the aftermath of a strong storm system that rocked the prairie for a long summer afternoon.
The last of my 12, a double rainbow blessed with the help of a crow.

Here are the ones that were close, so my apologies …

Since my retirement I’ve mostly avoided making images involving human involvement, yet this image from Lake Superior grabs me. This was the first night after an aborted effort to do the Lake Superior Circle Tour, when we were able to secure the last available camping spot in a commercial campground, one on a rise overlooking the lake. This, during the “blue hour,” was the highlight of our trip.
Following the election I was in search of calm waters … the East Pool of the Refuge.
A “fan” of prairie color from the Big Stone NWR …
Captured as we were leaving Frontenac State Park, just because I love trees and beautiful colors.
And this one, just because I love the color and feel.

Thanks for hanging in there with me. And, here’s to a healthy, peaceful and engaging New Year!

An Assignment …

For the past several years I’ve given myself one assignment. Just one. That I will search for a hopefully representative image that speaks of the Winter Solstice. Some years it is nip and tuck as I await a “true” representative image that speaks of the day and moment, one that typically that involves light and color — two of the major elements of artistic expression.

A few times I’ve had to wait through most of the day for such a moment to be revealed, for I want the image to feel special. Something meaningful. Something I hope happens before sunset on this, the shortest day of the year.

This quest began some 30 years ago when I was running a small country weekly newspaper here in the prairie. I was in need of a nice image for the top fold of the front page, and yes, I realized that on that particular Tuesday afternoon that it was the Winter Solstice. Initially this was simply an excuse to find a hook for the paper being published just ahead of  Christmas and I wasn’t buying into using another Santa picture. I was in pursuit of a prairie image within the moment.

My first Winter Solstice image nearly 30 yers ago outside of Clara City.

A frigid haze softened the brutal temperature as I looked across Hawk Creek while eating a sandwich, this just a couple of hours before we would send the paper to the printers. And there it was right in front of me (of all places!). With my camera in hand I traipsed through my little backyard prairie garden to the bank of the Hawk to take a picture of a neighboring farmstead nestled within the frozen haze, the sun barely poking through the dense gloom. 

From that point forward I’ve continued to search for an interesting and hopefully  meaningful Winter Solstice image. My one assignment! A year or two later it happened en route to the Post Office when a flock of pigeons burst from the town’s grain elevator to fly toward one of those rainbow-ish arcs of a sundog. One year it came down to the last light, one of those “rainbow skies,” as a friend once labeled those prairie horizons encroaching on the blue hour. Every year it seems something different reveals itself.

Pigeons near an arc of Sundog a few years later.

This, I’ll readily admit, is one of the joys of winter ranking close photographically with whims of a first hoarfrost or snowfall. Yet, I find the Solstice far more important and that it falls on a designated day. As far as the Summer Solstice goes, it’s sort of been more of a “blah” sort of feeling, for the narrowing of light hasn’t held the same flow of energy for me  as having longer days and ever more sunlight. Call it my inner pagan, if you desire.

I didn’t know what to expect this year, and truthfully I’ve been fighting a funk since the election. It’s not so much that my candidate lost, but rather who she lost to. I fear deeply for our country, for our form of government, and on a more personal level, for the continued  help necessary for my son with disabilities to have a meaningful life.

Since the election I’ve searched for some artistic revelation, For the first few days I found myself searching the prairie potholes around here for calm waters. Something psychologically soothing. On many days I found them, yet I couldn’t sit and write feelings I felt like sharing. Indeed, this is the first piece I’ve published since then.

In 2021 this image was caught in the “blue hour” moments before darkness.

A revelation is seemingly a moment of unexpected magic, of having a truth revealed in some inordinate way. Would something like this happen on this year’s Winter Solstice? When I climbed into the truck mid-morning I left Listening Stones in almost a frantic search, glancing into the trees and prairie grasses, searching the frozen wetlands and the cloudy sky. There was no preconceived thoughts. I wanted whatever image to be organic. Yes, there was an interesting array of wavy clouds with the sun weaving in and out, and there was also some interesting limbs painted with fresh snow. 

My mind was sort of fixated on those clouds, and the thought that it might work over an expanse of ice, so I drifted toward the spillway dam of the East Pool of the Big Stone Wildlife Refuge. Those silken clouds, though, were due southeast and nowhere near the ice, so I drove along slowly until I found my moment … two sets of animal tracks highlighted by the sun crossing the snowy wind dunes covering the ice — tracks coming from different directions that crossed before venturing off in different directions. A natural “crossroads” within nature, the hoof edges caught by a low, southerly light.

My image of the Solstice last Friday, of the crossing of animal tracks on the East Pool.

Those tracks seemed to echo precisely my feelings of what is going on not just personally, but also politically, of how the results of the election might affect our relationships with allies, neighboring countries. and even our enemies, We are all seemingly caught in this crossroad of philosophy and doubt, of what might happen in the weeks and months ahead. 

That there was no color seemed to perfectly portray this singular moment and thought in time. 

For several long moments I stared at the tracks, of their respective paths, of how they came from different directions, then crossed before venturing poetically in different directions. My thought was  that I had somehow successfully fulfilled my quest; that my Winter Solstice assignment had been accomplished. And that I was fortunate to discover and record this fragile moment as an image.

Oaken Moments

Two women stood in front of a canvas I’d titled “Oaken Umbrella.” They conversed somewhat secretly it seemed, sometimes raising fingers to perhaps camouflage their conversation. Other Meander customers were coming forth with credit cards offered and various images in hand. 

After glimpsing the two leave the image, then return, time after time, again speaking in huddled conference, I finally found a moment to chat with them. “Would you like to take it down to move it into better light?” I offered.

No, said one. “We love this but it’s more than we can spend,” said the other.

I briefly remembered the moment the picture was taken. This beautiful oak was on the Griffin Land on a hillside overlooking Lake Gilchrist, with its wide and staunch limbs stretching protectively wide to encompass the undergrowth along with thoughts and memories of this and other proud and stately oaks. It was much like the Heath Gunn poem of “The Spreading Oak” … broad and thick, and handsome trunk, supports the mighty branches, arching, spanning, spreading as if like Medieval lances … “

This image, Oaken Umbrella, served as a memorial for a woman who embraced oak trees.

That is the thing about oak trees, which my partner, Roberta, refers to as “Halloween Trees” thanks to the often ghostly looking stark limbs that seem to jut from the trunks, limbs that are quite visible about now as the late fall has denuded many of the trees. Gnarly and stately trunks of especially the older trees, some dating more than a century in age, offer forms of visual poetry that nearly always grasps my eye.

About 11 years ago the Bonanza portion of Big Stone Lake State Park was introduced to me by a young woman friend, a night when a full moon beckoned in the sky far above the hillside prairie of the park. There, standing all alone away from a small oaken savanna in an abbreviated ravine, was an oak I’ve since photographed numerous times. By now the tree is an old friend, one you feel you should reach out to now and then just to see how things are going.

There it stood, a “Halloween Tree,” the grasses golden in the prairie beyond.

Stoic and strong, standing in the text of time, there isn’t much of a shared conversation. Yet, even one-sided I can feel the strength and independence of the lone oak. A few years ago a devastating derecho came in off Big Stone Lake to raise havoc with many of the aged-old oaks both along the lakeside and there in the ravines of the prairie hillside. All that damage is still quite visible as most was left in place thanks to this being a “natural act of nature.” Yet, this single oak suffered no damage.

Just a few days ago we were ambling through the Bonanza searching for possible deer images when the afterglow of the prairie sunset painted an incredible orangish blaze in the grasses beyond the limbs of yet another old oak nearby. Roberta’s “Halloween” look of the old limbs snaked poetically from the trunk, somewhat silhouetted against the vivid color of the late sun-kissed prairie grasses that provided a splendid background. 

Emerging leaves from the staunch limbs on trees in a small oak savanna during a Master Naturalist hike near Redwing caught my eye.

Oaks have long sought my eye. Where I was raised in the hilly northeastern portion of Missouri,  the oaks on our farm were as dynamic to me as the shagbark hickories, and both were so unique and visually beautiful. Sometimes I would stop my horse to rein in that picturesque beauty, or if I was on a tractor mowing the hillsides, I would momentarily stop in awe. Now deep into retirement I still find an excuse to drive back onto the land now farmed by my nephew just to soak in the views of those old trees once again. And yes, most still grace those grassy hillsides all these years later.

On a Thanksgiving weekend evening a few years back, one of those old oak trees defied its  forestal surroundings with broad shouldered limbs defining its existence, limbs emerging from the dabbing of purplish leaves all around. My camera was raised to record this moment of late afternoon beauty. 

Back on the family farm in Missouri, this old oak stood apart from its forestal surrounding.

It didn’t take much imagination for me to close my eyes and have a running mental “film” rush though my memory of dozens of other encounters with various oak trees besides this one on the Griffin Land. Not long after my introduction to forest bathing a few years ago, that mix of nature with meditative breathing and awareness, i was on a Master Naturalist field trip in a Driftless forest near Redwing, MN, when I realized I was standing beneath an incredible theatre of oaken beauty. Leaning against a trunk and looking upwards into the branches and twigs, small immature leaves were starting to break from the buds. Almost involuntarily my breathing slowed and the meditation and kinship eased over me. 

Yes, I lifted the camera to take a few images of the canopy, and moments later trying to catch up with the rest of the tour, I found myself turning to gaze back at what was now stoic and strong old friends, taking different pictures of the oaks from various angles, even from a distant hill where the leader had taken us. I wasn’t a very attentive student, I’m afraid, although my guess was that the guide would have thoroughly understood.

The Bonanza ravines provide a home to small oak savannas that draw me in.

So the two women were back at the canvas of the Griffen oak when one said, “We looked through all your matted prints for a smaller one, something closer to our budget and couldn’t find one.”

“You see,” added the other woman, “a few months ago a dear friend of ours died of MS, and to her there was nothing more beautiful and meaningful than an old oak tree. Like this one. We were considering this as a memorial tribute to her.”

I asked if they had a few moments, that I would run down to my workbench and make them a print. As much as they seemed pleased with the gesture, there was a sense of kinship with someone I didn’t know who must have understood the lure of the beauty of such strong, stately and beautiful trees … the oaks. 

Already a Winner

There! I’ve entered a new photography contest. It’s been awhile, not since hoping for a spot in the annual Minnesota State Fair arts sweepstakes a few years ago. Frankly, I’m holding on to as much hope for this one as I did for that one. These affairs are rather subjective, and in this case, was the sponsors looking for artistic takes of nature or images that honor the overall beauty and significance of the Refuge?

I went with the latter, dismissing a couple of the more artistic possibilities. This is a revered place, home of huge monolithic outcrops released by the Glacial River Warren some 10,000 years ago. The goal here is for safe passage for waterfowl, yet it also is a summer harbor for prairie birds with very little habitat beyond the Refuge borders. Meadowlarks, Bob-o-Links, Nighthawks and the like find as much refuge here as the shorebirds, ducks and geese.

So there are the feathered species and the outcrops, rare ball cactus and countless forbs rarely seen outside of this beautiful Refuge. This paradise draws photographers like Rob Rakow, Don Sherman, Tom Watson, Jim Foster and any number of outsiders hoisting a cell phone or camera. For all these reasons. It’s an honor to be apart of this vast fraternity and the hope they will have also entered the contest. 

Capturing a Great White Egret easing down a fallen tree with the autumn foiliage was my choice for the water category.

Jointly sponsored by the Lac qui Parle County SWCD and the Big Stone National Wildlife Refuge, this one featured “my home” NWR, just 11 miles from here. Dozens of trips are made through the Refuge every month when the gate is open, and it is only closed when snow blocks the auto tour. I love the Refuge, for all the reasons mentioned above. The contest was my small way of supporting friends who work in both places. Besides, I was content to come home from meetings in the Cities to scour through the couple thousand images from the Refuge for the contest. I had some in mind and just had to find them and make a choice.

Then I re-read the rules and realized that the main criteria was that the photographs had to be taken within a one week period that ended Saturday night. Those old files weren’t eligible. This meant having to download all the images I’d taken at three state parks on the eastern side of the state, along with a few dozen from the Crex Meadows Wildlife Area in Wisconsin, from the week before to clear space on my camera card. That chore was finished mid-afternoon on Friday.

While I love this image, there was concern about something “arty” being a choice of the judges.

With the reformatted card and a charged battery I was then off to the Refuge in search of imagery for the three basic categories: water, land and sky. Sky, it turned out, was useless because of the dense gray featureless clouds. My initial trip through the auto tour didn’t offer much that first afternoon, although two of what I call “photographic poetry” images had my attention. One was an “arty” take of an autumn-blessed tree through a barely visible “screen” of a bushy prairie plant, purposely softened with a quite short depth of field. The other was a cool image of both floating and sunken leaves in a stretch of the Minnesota River. I needed more.

So before the Saturday morning sunrise I ventured to the far west border of the Refuge where I had an overlook of the entire Refuge. A few years ago this was where I captured a nice image of ambient sunset colors painting the clouds over the Refuge prairie, pools and wetlands. This was among the images being considered before re-reading the rules.

So the wait began, and to no avail for the clouds were much too dense for the sun to break through. It was back into the truck to head to the opposite side along Highway 75 and the dike overlook of the East pool where just before the Meander in early October I captured some nice silhouettes of Great Blue Herons stalking the shallows along the rocky shores. Nope, they weren’t there. 

It was off toward Odessa, venturing off into the first turn where a Great White Egret captured my eye as it patiently stalked down the length of a fallen tree. This would be my choice for the “water” category, for the lighting was perfect to emphasize the surrounding autumn foliage, and the composition was there for the taking. One of those moments of being in the right spot at the right time!

From there it was back to the Auto Drive. In all, I wouldn’t leave the Refuge until mid-afternoon, walking the trails, climbing those broad-shoulder outcrops and venturing down various mowed paths. 

A deer, the second one I’ve ever seen in all my times in the Refuge, and I spent numerous moments staring one another down. Hikes were made through the brush and prairie plants for other images along the river and the pools, and eventually included a nearly mile-long walk to an outcrop I’ve always intended to visit. It was recently “revealed” as numerous piles of buckthorn and scrub trees awaited a match all around the circumference of the husky granite. There wasn’t a bad view from the outcrop. Not one. There I sat for nearly an hour, listening, watching crows and a developing murmuration ply the skies, just breathing in a magnificent, 360 degree view of the Refuge. 

It actually doesn’t matter who has the chosen images, and if it isn’t one of mine it won’t matter for I’m already a winner for venturing into both familiar places and areas of the Refuge I’d not visited … all on an idyllic autumn day, capturing what images I could in the midst of the many 10,000 year old geological wonders within the park. An unexpected bonus was being introduced to a new fishing spot by a fellow in a pickup with South Dakota license plates. So, yes, I’m already blessed, and there is nothing wrong with that.

No ‘Trumpets’ in the Calmness

We were on the way home from visiting our sixth Minnesota State Park in the past two weeks when we saw the sign pointing toward the Sherburne National Wildlife Refuge. Just a short jog off our Google-assisted path home, so why not take a chance for once again photographing some Sandhill Cranes. Yes, I’m an obsessed “crane chaser!”

So we headed a bit south and west toward the seven-mile motor loop that meanders through this haven of “Cranesville” with high hopes and a quest for a picnic lunch. Yes, our anticipation was high, for we had made the earlier decision to postpone the last state park on our planned trip, one that was relatively close to Crex Meadows just across the Wisconsin border where Sandhills are often photographed. Visiting Sherburne was a nice salve for sore feelings.

What we found was a lazy afternoon in the Refuge. Numerous swans at rest and preening in cattail hideaways. Resting cormorants in the skeletons of long dead trees sunning themselves to dryness. Kingfishers posed on woody spikes with watchful eyes. Long-beaked Green Herons poised for murder and mayhem. Beautiful wild flowers painting the adjacent prairies and glowing global teacups of white water lilies floating on the calm surfaces of the wetlands. 

And not a single sighting of a Sandhill Crane. Not one.

Yes, there were swans preening in cattail hideaways.

“Off to the grain fields and prairies north of here,” was my shared thought, for we had passed three on the trip out not too far north, and actually along the highway we had just driven from. My suspicion was that the trio was a mated couple with their fully grown colt, and they were stoic and beautiful in the small patch of prairie next to an oak grove. Had we not been in a rush we might have pulled off for a picture, so we moved along.

Was this absence another sign of our dwindling summer? The weekend before we left on this excursion to hopefully complete my personal photo journal of the Minnesota State Parks, we had delivered a print to a farmer friend who has been quite kind over the years in suggesting nature sightings on his land. Next to his farm site we photographed power lines filled with seemingly hundreds of Redwing Blackbirds that had congregated as they do before migration. That we’ve seen the small family flocks of Canadian Geese flying around Listening Stones is another sign of a waning summer, but what really caught my attention was the bright blue, starred blooms of asters in the woody fringes of the state parks. It seems so early. Too early.

And a calmness where even the wetlands suffered not a ripple.

But yes, we are more than halfway through August so fall is quickly approaching, and nature is opening its annual gallery of these many seasonal changes that await us.

Our wildlife loop through Sherburne was almost shocking for it was my first time in the many loops I’ve made through there over the years without seeing a single Sandhill Crane. Spring, summer or autumn we’ve always been greeted by cranes, and once it was before we even reached the welcoming signs and kiosk less than a mile past the gate. After Thanksgiving last fall we spotted hundreds in two different groups along the edges of distant wetlands. Not this time, and we scanned the distant landscapes thoroughly with the 600 mm lens.

Regardless of species, the spring hatch has now grown mature enough that the parents are offering “flying lessons” to gorge up for the upcoming migrations. We must include the Sandhill Cranes among those offering such important lessons, for before long the prairies will be winter quiet. 

Earlier, next to a farmer’s homesite, hundreds of redwings perched in rest on the power lines.

Around the house the number of barn swallows has nearly tripled in the past couple of weeks, as the young seem just as adept at flying above the prairie for mosquitoes and other insects as their matured parents. A few years ago I recall sitting on the deck with a class of cold tea looking at all of the swallows perched on the clothes lines and the several perchable edges of the outbuildings. Our prairie was noisy with the loud chatter of a late morning. We had gone inside for a quick lunch and when we returned a little later there wasn’t a swallow in sight. All were all gone. And the silence was deafening. In a midday instant the migration had parted.

Sherburne was sort of like that on our drive through late last week. Yes, it was a lazy and warm afternoon. There was barely a ripple on the surfaces of the multiple wetlands, so besides the feeling of laziness it was also incredibly calm. Peaceful in a way that makes your breathing easy.

Glowing global teacups of white water lilies were floating on the calm surfaces of the wetlands.

It was almost like we were intruding on sacred natural moments, viewing scenes we weren’t supposed to see. In terms of humans we were almost all alone for we saw only a couple of cars, and only one had eased around our camper and pickup. Perhaps the “regulars” already were aware that the Sandhills were off feeding away from the refuge. My guess is that if we had been there hours earlier around dawn or even later in the evening we would have seen the beautiful skeins flying in, necks and legs straight like an arrow in flight, silhouetted in a sky in the full color of a brilliant sunset. Just not then, not in an early and easy afternoon.

Perhaps the asters had given us the clue all along. I was somewhat shocked to see them already in such a mature bloom, and I suppose the shorter hours of daylight should have been previously noted … and perhaps it was by folks more astute about the constant messages sent by nature. Those blue blossoms have rarely lied. and our summer is nearing an end.

Yet I missed the poetic stalking, that unmistakable purposeful stride through tall prairie grasses; that watchful and protective eye of the tall standing male as the female and colt garner food nearby; that unique call of the wild that Aldo Leopold claimed was not the call of a mere bird, but a “trumpet in the orchestra of evolution.” Yes, that bird.

Skies of Anger

My songwriter friend, Charlie Roth, penned a beauty about this time a year ago that he called “I Don’t Want to Live in an Angry World,” a song with such a catchy chorus that even on the night he introduced it to a live audience most were singing along with his simple but catchy and timely chorus by the end. A room of harmony that maybe even surprised Charlie. The song was about politics and how he thought it was time to do away with the anger on either side of the divide and become friends again.

I found myself mentally humming his chorus as I looked up at the angry heavens the other day, of a planet that is in dire need of human hope and help. After all, we’re the ones causing this climatic turmoil. Our skies are alive with that disgusted anger. It seems the planet is not just angry but pissed, and she is letting us know from the plains of Africa to the mountains of Canada, from the deep South to the Pacific islands. We are living in an angry, climactic world.

Yes, the sky looks angry as a cumulonimbus bank of clouds darkened the prairie.

Although we have so far escaped the dreaded tornado activity being experienced in the South, and obviously the horrendous hurricanes and typhoons of the heat-bearing oceanic regions, our skies have been burdened with layers of smoke from the uncountable fires from the Yukon to LA, and although our stormy weather has been somewhat wet and traumatic, we’ve been lucky so far. 

Still, that anger is there, above us, and the heavens aren’t shy about showing that rage. This week we’ve suddenly been bombarded with dense dark clouds bearing lightning and deep, bass thunder that has shaken our very foundations. Huge rain storms have ravaged nearby communities, and baseball sized hail pounded the crops and homes less than ten miles north of here. Nearby Granite Falls had about five inches of rain in an hour or so last Sunday. Many of our saturated farm fields have standing water in the rows of their commodity crops, and the wetlands are full. Nearby the rivers were just nearing bank-side when these latest storms cruised through.

This was the mid-morning scene above the prairie and woodland and our first rain of the day.

Let’s pick a single day, say July 31, a day that began here in the western Minnesota prairie with some clinging early morning heat accompanied with crushing humidity. Normally I’ll laugh at my significant other for what she terms as scorching days of heat and humidity. Having grown up with it, and having worked in the hay fields and haylofts during those formative years, most of our summer days have been in the mid to high 80s with mild humidity — in fact, before Wednesday I spent the afternoons kneeling in the garden pulling weeds to make way for a cover crop. Yes, there was a lot of sweat pouring but there was also a nice breeze both afternoons.

Wednesday, though, was different. A humid haze hung like a dense curtain on the fringes of the horizon. Sweat came with minimal activity, like walking from the deck to the studio. Then, around 10 a.m. I stepped out of the studio to notice a huge, deep black cloud hovering just above the woodland and northern prairie. Within moments we were enveloped in darkness, as lightning and rumbling thunder rolled in along with the first rain. It was a hasty affair, lasting mere minutes as the prairie winds quickly moved it right along toward the east. Nearly an iinch fell and you could sense the pressure relaxing.

This pod of pelicans offered a brief calmness to the day.

Having a photograph to make in town, I left the farm via the Lake Road, got my photograph and started back home. As I was passing the supermarket along First Avenue I noticed a pod of pelicans just above the lake, and was able to grab a couple of nice images as they turned mid-air to ease to a landing on Big Stone Lake. A moment of peace in the turbulent skies.

This early storm was merely a prelude to what occurred overhead by mid-afternoon. I actually shouted to Roberta to come and look at the overwhelming ominous cloud capturing the sky above us. Our only lightness was a thin strip of a collar between the blanketing cloud and the horizon. This dense, rollicking cloud seemed to blacken the entire prairie. 

Lightning lit deep within the rollicking layers. Lightning seems to be a prelude for all of the stormy events regardless of country or continent. It’s said that lightning is actually a neutralization between our dominate poles, equalizing the natural pressure of the atmosphere. Between the clouds and the lightning, it was both frightening and awesome to behold. But, was there any equalizing going on?

Besides an emerging rainbow, a cosmic unevenness seemed to prevail over the prairie.

This theory was verbalized by a speaker at a Gathering Partners’ annual gathering of the Minnesota Master Naturalists a few years ago. He noted that without thunderstorms and lightning, the earth’s atmosphere electrical balance would likely disappear within minutes, adding that the science community isn’t really sure what would happen on earth if this balance wasn’t maintained. As it is, somewhere on earth this neutralization though lightning is ongoing, 24/7, 365 days a year. On this day it was our turn, happening right above and around us.

Yet, another hypothetical and unanswered question that concerns scientists with the warming of the planet is what happens if the currents in the warming oceans were to suddenly stop. We are entering a time on perhaps the only livable planet in the universe where we have many unanswered questions about our future as a species, and perhaps our neglect is what is feeding these angry skies.

Even at sunset the prairie above Bonanza seemed threatening.

On our travels on this eventful day we followed the continuing storms with my camera, concluding in the nearby Bonanza section of Big Stone Lake State Park as the evening sunset painted nimbus clouds in an array of puffy beauty, like little cotton balls adorned with foundation makeup of a movie beauty. These clouds provided a momentary sense of artistic flair compared to the giant cumulonimbus clouds that we experienced mid-afternoon, the one that completely blanketed the prairie as far as we could see, clouds rolling and rising, churning with a grasp of what I read as anger. Pent up, deep-in-the-gut retching anger in the skies.

I couldn’t help but think of that chorus in Charlie’s song while looking at those deeply dark and churning clouds. As tired as I am of living in a politically angry world, being surrounded by a world reeking of ever worsening patterns and events within a global climate change that threatens all of humanity worldwide, there are those who choose to ignore the threat or dismiss it as some sort of a “liberal ploy” This causes an internal rage within me, a rage that seems awakened by the turbulent skies above us. I don’t want to live in such an angry world. I really don’t.

Homage for the Blues

A few weeks ago my poet friend, Athena Kildagaard, excitedly told me one of her poems, “Translation,” was going to be published in an anthology on Great Blue Herons called “Broad Wings, Long Legs … A Rookery of Heron Poems.” Within moments an order was placed through the publisher, North Star Press of St. Cloud, and what a fine collection it has turned out to be, for I’ve long loved these beautiful birds.

Even the cover is artfully donel, And if you’re one of those who read the jacket statements, check this comment by Chuck Dayton, an environmental attorney and activist: “Herons are magical. They draw you into their world without moving …” 

So true. I’m just as guilty of that spiritual seduction as Chuck, the dozens of poets featured in the fascinating anthology along with countless avian and nature lovers.

Being drawn into their world with moving.

Poets and herons share a lot of same … a strived beauty in form, a sense of seemingly meditative isolation, sudden flights of escape from perceived angst. This can come across in watching a heron at rest in old, worn trees, or quietly stalking an unseen prey, posing quietly in a small prairie stream, and yes, especially in the beauty of flight as they lift away from even the stealthiest canoe, easing lazily in flight downriver past leafy dogwood and cottonwood much as a poet edges from a crowd for solitude and a pad.

Eventually when you hear the beauty of their crafted words, carefully chosen, words stalked much like lone heron eyeing an unsuspecting frog, then finally, with the power of their chosen and spoken words, Athena and her brethren of poets stand poised to provide a mesmerizing reading of their artistic endeavors. 

It’s all poetry, both in form or in word, in feathered flight or presented word. What a wonderful marriage of nature and language.

Athena’s poem, Translation, that led to grabbing the anthology.

Yes, this collection of poetry pays tribute to one of nature’s more splendid birds, the Great Blue Heron. Our family has kept a keen eye on these lonesome avian artists for many years. Sighting her first heron of the year meant that my late wife, Sharon Yedo White, had at last witnessed the closure of winter; that spring was soon upon us; that nearby waters were finally free of ice and the prairie meadows would once again bloom. Yes, for her herons were the artfully flying harbingers of a changing season, necks bent in flight with legs stretched behind straight as an arrow, a slow blur of powder blue, gray and white, all crowned with a short hooded cape of blackness.

Sharon loved these curve-necked fliers as much as I love my Sandhill Cranes, and perhaps for many of the same reasons. Grace. Perfect form and beauty, in waterside pose or in flight. along with an independent will. While I’d suggest that herons are much more solitary than cranes, collectively their individual beauty gives both species a select space in our appreciation of avian artistry.

We didn’t see many Great Blue Herons in my youth, although our move to Minnesota brought us closer to herons than ever before. Our first two homes were along, first, the St. Croix and then later, the Little Verillion River near Hastings. I soon discovered the beauty of fly fishing from canoes, and early mornings in a canoe flipping flies for bluegill or bass in the reedy shallows sometimes allowed me to sneak up on stalking, solitary herons. Once in Camp Lake in central Minnesota, a heron eyed me cautiously while strutting on a wooden dock as I quietly stroked my paddle. I expected flight at any moment, yet it defiantly held ground. 

Poetry doesn’t always have to be so serious.

Canoeing the rivers means you can rarely keep up with skittish herons as they keep a respectful distance between themselves and the paddlers. Yet, one late August or early September morning our fishing party of a handful of canoes that had pushed off from Skalbakken County Park below Sacred Heart passed several nearly full grown youngsters perched along the riverine bank. Back then there was live rookery tucked close to a nearby river bend, so we suspected these were the nearly grown from the spring hatch. Perhaps fear or even survival had yet to enter their collective mindset. Who knows, yet it was an unexpected and welcomed surprise.

Their grace and beauty has always attracted my photographic eye. My sister still displays a Christmas gift of one of my first images of a Great Blue, one I photographed in a wetland just west of Willmar one evening on the way home from fishing. That one morning fishing on Camp i would have loved to have had a camera although by then I had learned that cameras and canoes are not necessarily good companions, Yet, I can hardly pass up an opportunity of capturing new and different images. I’m seduced by the magic, drawn into their solitary stealth, captured by those pleasing plumes of color and awed by such graceful flight. 

One of the poems, written by James Silas Rogers, called “On the Cannon River” … which we canoed dozens of times … hit so close to home:

“… Our quiet, passing canoe

untethers their blue-gray forms.

They lift

and in solemn, slow strokes

row the air, move downstream.

Without wanting,

we chase a Great Blue for miles,

in pursuit of solitude.”